Portobello

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This article is an extract from Eva McCracken book Accessible Walks to be published at the end of the year.

If you want a bracing ride along a beautiful, old seafront promenade then Portobello is the place to go. The audit of this route was made in early October when the weather was sunny but bracing. Outdoor clothing for all-weather conditions, from sunshine to gales, is required and may be required on just the one day visit!

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The route can be done from either end of the prom. or from the middle. I arrived by taxi at the Portobello Leisure Centre where I met 2 fellow wheelchair ramblers. Going west towards Leith and Edinburgh gives one the opportunity to pick up a feel for this old town as it might have felt 100 years ago.

Indeed the interpretation boards are written with this perspective in mind and tell of all the fun and jollies the Scottish holidaymaker might have expected - the Pierrots, Punch & Judy etc.

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The west end is more industrial and it is perhaps better to cast one's eyes north over the Forth to Fife. At this point the choice is then I believe the ferry used to traverse the Forth from Portobello and it was easy to imagine boarding the boat here and the relief at not going on a train over the Forth Bridge miles up river. to return via the town of Portobello or retrace one's steps heading east towards Musselburgh.

We chose the second as the sun was shining and the draw of the sea quite compulsive. Although linear routes, retracing steps, may seem boring I always find the view behind one so different from the one taken that it is worth doing.

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In this instance the view of the East Lothian coast and looking beyond to the North Sea quite entrancing.

Now this may be because, living in Fife, I am so used to viewing it from across the Forth or it may have been the sunshine glinting off the sea but I am sure it's better than an old high street anywhere.

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We reached the end of the prom. and kept on going past Joppa where the blue plaque assured us it was the oldest house in Portobello. Keeping the sea on our left we came to traffic lights, crossed and turned right up towards the town.

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About half a mile up the A199 we turned left towards the Brunstane railway station.

Do not be fooled by the first entrance with a flight of stairs. This is a new station with full access 10yards further on. The platform is narrow and I was only just able to access the train using the on board ramp.

Next time I will arrive by train and meander down the steep roads to the seafront – a route my friends took with no difficulty.

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